How to sew darts: a beginner's step-by-step guide

To sew a dart, fold the fabric right sides together so the two dart legs line up, pin them, and stitch from the wide end to the point. Taper the stitching until it runs right off the fold, tie the thread tails instead of backstitching, then press the dart over a tailor's ham. The free Bowl Cozy pattern in the Sewzy app is a good first project to practice on.

TL;DR

• A dart is a wedge that shapes flat fabric around a curve.
• Mark the two legs and the point, fold with right sides together and match the legs.
• Sew from the wide end to the point, tapering off the fold in the last stitches.
• Do not backstitch at the point. Tie the tails or use a short stitch for the last ½ in.
• Press vertical darts toward the center and bust darts down, over a tailor's ham.
• Thick fabric: slash the dart open and press it flat to reduce bulk.

Sew the Bowl Cozy from this guide, step by step, in the Sewzy app

Pick your size, print it from your phone, and follow every step with a sewing coach beside you.

What is a dart?

A dart is a triangle of fabric that is folded out and stitched so that flat cloth fits a curve. It is wide where the shape needs the most room and it ends at a point. You see darts at the bust, waist and shoulder of clothes. They also help small projects such as a microwave bowl cozy hold their bowl shape. A dart is just a straight seam, so if you can follow a line you can sew one. If your straight lines still wobble, first read how to sew a straight line and curves.

How do you mark a dart?

A dart has two legs and a point. Mark all three on the wrong side of the fabric:

• Mark each leg with chalk, a washable marker or tailor's tacks, from the edge to the point.
• Mark the point with a clear dot. Do not stitch beyond it.
• Use a ruler to draw each leg as a straight line.
• Test your marker on a scrap first, so you know it will wash out.

How to sew a dart, step by step

1. Fold. Fold the fabric with right sides together so the two legs lie exactly on top of each other. The fold runs from the middle of the wide end to the point.
2. Match and pin. Push a pin through both layers at the point, then at the wide end, so the marks line up on both sides. Add pins across the legs, with the heads pointing out so you can pull them as you sew.
3. Start at the wide end. Place the needle on the leg at the edge of the fabric. Backstitch here if you like, since the end is hidden in the seam.
4. Sew toward the point. Follow the marked line in a straight, steady line. Slow down near the point.
5. Taper off the fold. For the last few stitches, move so that the line runs right along the folded edge and off the end. This gives a smooth point with no dimple.
6. Finish without backstitching. Leave long thread tails and tie them in a knot close to the fabric. Or shorten the stitch length for the last ½ in so the stitches lock themselves.
7. Press. Press the dart flat as sewn to set the stitches, then press it to one side over a tailor's ham.

Which way do you press a dart?

Vertical darts, such as waist darts, are pressed toward the center. Bust darts are pressed down. The curved shape of a tailor's ham helps the fabric keep its dome and avoids a flat crease. Press from the wrong side, and press the tip last, so you do not poke a crease past the point. A rolled towel works if you do not have a ham.

How do you practice darts on a real project?

The Bowl Cozy is a free beginner pattern that takes about 60 minutes. It has 12 steps and lists darts as a skill. In step 6 you sew the top and bottom darts, and in step 7 the left and right darts, so all four darts are sewn and pressed on both stacks. The seam allowance is ⅜ in, and the pattern comes in five sizes to fit bowls of 8, 10, 12½, 15 and 17½ in. You need 100% cotton fabric and batting, since polyester melts in a microwave. The full project is in the how to sew a bowl cozy article, and more beginner projects are in the free sewing patterns collection, such as the Drawstring Bag or the Elastic-Waist Skirt. These two have no darts, but they are good next steps once your straight seams are steady.

What if the fabric is thick?

Thick fabric such as canvas or heavy batting makes a bulky dart that will not lie flat. Sew the dart as normal, then cut along the fold to about ½ in from the point. Press the dart open, like a seam. This spreads the bulk. On quilted layers like the bowl cozy, a walking foot helps the layers feed evenly.

Common mistakes

• A pucker or dimple at the point. The stitching left the fold too early or too steeply. Unpick the last inch and sew again, tapering right along the fold, then press over a ham.
• Backstitching at the point. It builds a lump. Tie the tails instead.
• Uneven darts. If a pair is meant to match, mark both with the same ruler measurements and compare them before pressing.
• Sewing past the point. Stop exactly at the point mark and taper off the fold.
• Bulk in thick fabric. Slash the dart and press it open.
• Pressing without a ham. A flat press squashes the curve the dart was made to create.