How to sew an elastic-waist skirt: free pattern, XS to 3XL

To sew an elastic-waist skirt, cut two skirt panels on the fold, sew the two side seams, fold the top edge down to make a casing and stitch it, leaving a small gap. Thread wide elastic through the casing, overlap the ends and stitch them, close the gap, then hem the bottom. The Sewzy Elastic-Waist Skirt is a free pattern in sizes XS to 3XL, chosen by hip measurement, and takes about 90 minutes, which makes it a good first garment.

Download the free Elastic-Waist Skirt PDF: every size, letter and A0 files and the step-by-step guide.

TL;DR

• Size by hip: XS (36 in) to 3XL (56 in). The skirt is about 1.6 times your hip all round, full but not bulky.
• Length: 22 to 23½ inches from waist to hem, with a line to lengthen or shorten. Cut 4 inches longer for a maxi.
• Fabric: light to medium wovens with drape: cotton lawn, linen, rayon challis, double gauze, chambray, seersucker.
• Elastic: 1½ inch non-roll elastic, your waist measurement minus 2 inches.
• Time: about 90 minutes. The pattern is free, with every size.

Elastic-waist skirt size chart

Choose by hip, because the elastic adjusts to your waist. The ⅜ inch seam allowance, the 2¾ inch casing and the 1¼ inch hem are included. Not sure between two sizes? See what size sewing pattern to choose.

What fabric is best for an elastic-waist skirt?

Pick a light to medium woven that drapes: cotton lawn, linen, rayon challis, double gauze, chambray or seersucker. Stiff or thick fabrics make the gathers at the waist bulky. Prewash linen and rayon, because both shrink. For a winter skirt, a soft chambray or a brushed cotton works with tights. More on choosing fabric is in best fabric for beginner sewing.

What you need

• Fabric, as in the table.
• 1½ inch non-roll elastic, your waist minus 2 inches.
• Matching thread and a safety pin or bodkin.

How to sew an elastic-waist skirt, step by step

1. Cut. Print your size and cut 2 skirt panels on the fold, one front and one back. Mark the waist line, the lengthen-shorten line and the hem fold line. Cut the elastic.
2. Sew the side seams. Put the panels right sides together and stitch both side seams from waist to hem. Finish the raw edges with a zigzag or overlock and press them toward the back.
3. Make the casing. Finish the top edge, fold it down ½ inch and then 1¾ inches along the waist line, and press. Stitch close to the inner fold, leaving a 2 inch gap at one side seam.
4. Add the elastic. Thread it through with a safety pin, keeping it flat. Overlap the ends 1 inch, stitch a square, ease it inside and close the gap. Spread the gathers evenly.
5. Hem. Press the hem under ⅜ inch, fold on the hem fold line and topstitch. Press the whole skirt.

For seam finishes without an overlocker, see how to finish seams without a serger. The casing is explained in more detail in how to sew an elastic waistband, and the free elastic length calculator double-checks your elastic.

Add pockets

Pockets have to go in before the side seams. Sew a pocket bag to each side edge of the front and back panels, then sew the side seams around the bags. The pattern borrows the pocket bag from the free Barrel Pants; the steps are in how to sew barrel pants. If the side seams are already sewn, skip pockets this time.

Tips

• Stop the elastic rolling: stitch a second line ¼ inch below the top fold of the casing.
• Maxi skirt: cut the panels 4 inches longer.
• Press as you go: every seam pressed makes the skirt look shop-bought.
• Hemming: the same double-fold hem is in how to hem pants by hand and machine.

Free pattern, every size

The Elastic-Waist Skirt is free in the Sewzy app, with every size from XS to 3XL and a photo for each step. Pair it with the free Boxy Tee for a whole outfit; see how to sew a boxy tee. For more first projects, read easy sewing projects for beginners.