How to sew a ruched tote bag (3 sizes, 12 steps)

To sew a ruched tote bag, gather a ruched panel with two rows of long stitches, join it between a band and a body piece, sew the outer bag and the lining, then stitch them together at the top and turn. The Ruched Tote pattern in the Sewzy app comes in three sizes, is rated beginner and takes about 150 minutes.

TL;DR

• Sizes: Mini 10 x 9 in, Medium 13 x 12 in, Large 16 x 14 in.
• Level and time: beginner, about 150 minutes in 12 steps.
• Skills: gathering, boxed corners and a magnetic snap (18 mm).
• Seam allowance: ⅜ in, already included in the pattern pieces.
• Price: Premium, in the Sewzy app.

Sew the Ruched Tote from this guide, step by step, in the Sewzy app

Pick your size, print it from your phone, and follow every step with a sewing coach beside you.

What is a ruched tote bag?

A ruched tote has a gathered band across the front and back, so the fabric forms soft folds. It looks fancy, but the gathered panel is a plain rectangle with two rows of stitches. If you can sew a straight seam you can make it. It is a good next step after a basic lined tote bag.

Which size should you make?

Mini is the small size, Medium is the everyday size and Large is the laptop-carry size. The outer yardage also covers the two straps.

What fabric and supplies do you need?

• Outer, panel and straps: soft cotton canvas, linen-cotton blend, chambray or quilting cotton with a little drape.
• Lining: quilting cotton or poplin.
• Closure: one 18 mm magnetic snap and fusible interfacing scraps.
• Optional: template plastic or heavy stabilizer for a base insert.
• Tools: matching thread, clips and an 80/12 needle.

Pick a fabric with some drape. A very stiff canvas will not gather into soft folds.

How to sew a ruched tote bag, step by step

1. Cut. From outer fabric cut 2 bodies, 2 bands and 2 ruched panels, plus 2 straps. From lining cut 2 linings and 1 slip pocket. Cut the box corner notches.
2. Mark. Transfer the base line and strap notches, the gather rows on the panels and the snap dot and turning gap on the lining.
3. Snap. Fuse interfacing behind the snap dot on each lining piece and fit one half of the magnetic snap on each. The outer fabric is never pierced.
4. Slip pocket. Press the pocket's folded top and the other edges under, then edgestitch the sides and bottom onto a lining piece, leaving the top open.
5. Gather the panel. Baste 2 rows of long stitches (3.5 to 4 mm) ¼ in apart along the top and bottom raw edges. Do not backstitch. Pull the bobbin threads until each edge matches the band or body, spread the folds evenly and knot the tails.
6. Join panel to band and body. Pin the gathered edges to the band and body right sides together and stitch ⅜ in. Press the seams away from the gathers.
7. Straps. Fold the strips into four layers, edgestitch both long edges and add two more rows between them.
8. Sew the outer bag. Join front and back at the sides, press the seams open and box the bottom corners.
9. Sew the lining. Do the same, but leave a 5 in gap in the bottom seam for turning.
10. Place the straps. Pin the straps to the front and back at the notches, untwisted, and baste the ends ¼ in from the edge.
11. Join outer and lining. Slip the outer into the lining, right sides together. Stitch the top edge, turn through the gap and close it.
12. Topstitch and finish. Press the top edge and topstitch twice, ¼ in and 1¼ in from the edge, which locks the strap ends in.

How do you gather fabric neatly?

Use a long straight stitch and two parallel rows, one just inside the seam allowance and one a little further in. Pull the bobbin threads from both ends so the folds stay even. The full method is in how to gather fabric. Pull up slightly more than the target first, arrange the folds with your fingers, then ease back to the exact length before pinning.

Is a ruched tote a good gift?

It is a sweet one. The gathered band makes a plain bag look special, and you can pick fabric that suits the person. Mini is a nice small gift, and Large suits laptop carry. For more ideas, see gifts to sew for women.

What tips make it easier?

• Baste the gather rows a little inside the seam allowance so the stitches stay hidden.
• Trim the box seam allowances to ⅛ in and press the side seams flat before boxing the corners.
• Use a contrast band and straps, or a longer strap for a crossbody version.
• Press the finished bag from the wrong side, or steam without pressure, so the gathers are not flattened.

Want a different shape next? Try the Pocket Tote or the Bucket Bag, or browse all bag sewing patterns.

Common mistakes

• Backstitching the gather rows. You cannot pull the threads up if they are locked.
• Pulling the top thread. Pull the bobbin threads, which slide more easily.
• Using stiff fabric for the panel. It forms hard, bulky folds instead of soft ruching.
• Piercing the outer for the snap. Fit the snap on the lining only, with interfacing behind it.
• Twisted straps. Check both straps hang straight before you sew the top seam.
• Forgetting the turning gap. Leave it in the lining bottom seam, then close it neatly.