How to read a sewing pattern: symbols, grainline and notches explained

A sewing pattern is a set of paper shapes with symbols that tell you where to cut, fold, match and sew. The four most important symbols are the cutting line, the grainline arrow, the fold line and the notches.

What are the main parts of a sewing pattern?

Most patterns have three parts: the pattern pieces, the instructions and a cutting layout. Many also have a size chart and a list of what you need. With a PDF pattern, the pieces print on separate sheets that you tape together. Read our guide to printing PDF sewing patterns for that part.

What do the lines on a pattern mean?

• Cutting line: the outer edge you cut along. Often a solid, bold line. Different sizes have different lines, so follow the line for your size.
• Stitching line: where you sew. It sits inside the cutting line by the seam allowance. Many modern patterns do not print it.
• Fold line: usually marked with a bracket or arrows pointing at the edge. Place that edge on a folded edge of the fabric and cut once to get a symmetrical piece.
• Lengthen or shorten line: a pair of lines where you can cut the paper to adjust length.

What is a grainline?

The grainline is a long arrow with a point at each end. Place it parallel to the selvage, which is the tightly woven finished edge of the fabric. Measure from both ends of the arrow to the selvage, and move the piece until both measurements match. A piece cut off-grain can twist or sag after washing.

Fabric has three directions: lengthwise grain (along the selvage), crosswise grain (selvage to selvage) and bias (45 degrees to both). The bias stretches the most.

What are notches and dots?

Notches are small triangles or short lines on the cutting edge. They help you match pieces when sewing. A single notch might mark the front and a double notch the back. Cut them outward (a tiny snip beyond the edge) or snip ⅛ inch (3 mm) into the seam allowance, but never past the stitching line. Dots or circles mark points such as dart tips, pocket positions and where to start gathering. Transfer them to the fabric with chalk or a fabric marker.

What is seam allowance?

Seam allowance is the strip between the cutting line and the stitching line. Common amounts are ¼ inch (6 mm), ⅜ inch (1 cm), ½ inch (1.3 cm) and ⅝ inch (1.5 cm). Always check what your pattern uses. We cover it in seam allowance explained.

What is ease?

Ease is the extra room between your body measurement and the finished garment. A fitted top may have 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) of ease at the bust. A boxy tee has much more. If a pattern lists finished measurements, compare them with your own to see how loose it will be. For help choosing a size, read what size sewing pattern do I need.

What do I do with the cutting layout?

The layout shows how to place the pieces on fabric to waste the least. It tells you whether to fold the fabric, which pieces go on the fold and which should be cut twice. Fabric width matters: many layouts are for 45 inch (115 cm) or 60 inch (150 cm) wide fabric. If your fabric is a different width, the yardage will change. See how much fabric do I need.

What do the abbreviations mean?

A good first pattern to read

Pick a simple pattern with few pieces. A free option is the Boxy Tee, a beginner project with seven sizes and about 90 minutes of sewing. A smaller choice is the Scrunchie, which takes 15 minutes. Practice reading the symbols before moving to something with more pieces.

Make it with Sewzy

With Sewzy the steps are written out in the app, so you do not have to decode a folded paper sheet. You get a letter-size print-at-home PDF (plus an A0 copy-shop file), all sizes included, a size finder and an AI sewing coach that can explain a symbol or step. Sewzy is iPhone only: $3.99 per week or $29.99 per year, with a 3-day free trial. Get Sewzy on the App Store.

FAQ

What is a grainline on a sewing pattern?

A long double-headed arrow. Place it parallel to the selvage so the piece is cut on the straight grain of the fabric.

What are the triangles on a sewing pattern?

Notches. They are match points. Line up the notches on two pieces when you pin them together.

What is the fold line on a pattern?

The edge marked with a bracket or arrows. Place it on the folded edge of the fabric so the piece is cut as one symmetrical shape.

What is ease in sewing?

The extra room between your body and the finished garment. More ease makes a looser fit.

Where is the seam allowance on a PDF pattern?

It depends on the pattern. Some include it and some do not, so check the instructions before cutting.