What size needle for quilting cotton? A needle and thread guide

For most woven cotton, use a universal needle in size 80/12 with all-purpose polyester thread. Use a ballpoint needle for knits and a 100/16 or 110/18 needle for denim and canvas.

What do the needle numbers mean?

A needle has two numbers, such as 80/12. The first is the European size, which is the diameter of the shaft in hundredths of a millimeter, so 80 means 0.80 mm. The second is the American size. A smaller number means a finer needle.

• 60/8 to 70/10: fine fabrics such as voile, lawn and lightweight silk.
• 80/12: the all-round size for quilting cotton and light to medium fabrics.
• 90/14: medium-weight fabrics such as linen, twill and fleece.
• 100/16 to 110/18: heavy fabrics such as denim, canvas and upholstery.

Which needle for which fabric?

What is the difference between a universal, sharp and ballpoint needle?

A universal needle has a slightly rounded point and works on most woven and knit fabrics. A sharp (Microtex) needle has a very fine point and gives straight, tidy stitches in tightly woven fabric. A ballpoint needle has a rounded tip that slides between the fibers of a knit instead of piercing them, so it avoids snags and skipped stitches.

Which thread should I use?

All-purpose polyester thread in a 40 to 50 weight is the best default. It is strong, has a little give and works for almost everything on a home machine. Cotton thread is nice for quilting and light cotton, but it makes more lint. Use a heavier thread for topstitching (30 weight) with a topstitch needle, which has a larger eye.

• Match the thread color to the fabric, or go a shade darker if you are unsure.
• Use the same thread in the needle and the bobbin to start with.
• Avoid very old thread. If it breaks easily when you pull it, replace it.

How often should I change my needle?

A common rule is to replace the needle after about 8 hours of sewing, or at the start of each new project. Also change it right away if it hits a pin, if you hear a popping sound, or if you see skipped stitches or snagged threads. A dull needle is one of the most common causes of poor stitches.

What if my stitches look wrong?

1. Re-thread the machine with the presser foot up. This fixes most tension problems.
2. Put in a new needle of the right type and size.
3. Check that the needle is inserted all the way, with the flat side facing the correct way for your machine.
4. Try a test scrap with a stitch length of 2.5 mm, a good default for most seams.

For more on fabric choices and amounts, see how much fabric do I need.

A starter set of needles

If you only buy a few, buy a pack of universal 80/12, a pack of ballpoint 75/11 or 90/14 for knits, and one denim 100/16. That covers almost everything in beginner patterns such as the free Boxed Tote Bag and Drawstring Bag. Our list of sewing tools for beginners has the rest.

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FAQ

What needle do I use for quilting cotton?

A universal or sharp needle in size 75/11 to 80/12. Size 80/12 is the safest default.

What needle do I use for stretch fabric?

A ballpoint or stretch needle, size 70/10 to 90/14, depending on the knit's weight.

What size needle for denim?

A denim or jeans needle in size 100/16 or 110/18.

How often should I change my sewing machine needle?

About every 8 hours of sewing or at the start of each project. Change it at once if it hits a pin or you see skipped stitches.

What thread should a beginner use?

All-purpose polyester thread, 40 to 50 weight, in a color that matches the fabric.